Backpacking from Sol Duc Hot Springs Around the 7 Lakes Basin

Last weekend, Shaun and I embarked on our first 3-day backpacking trip to the Seven Lakes Basin on the Olympic Peninsula. We'd done 2 day trips before, so we figured 3 days would just mean bringing a bit more food, and covering a few more miles.

Laying out all our supplies the night before.

We lucked out with great weather the entire weekend. We were a little concerned because I had read trip reports that mentioned scary things like "ice axes," "self arrest skills," and "crampons" -- things we didn't have. I checked the trip reports multiple times, and was calmed by the reports that came in the weekend before our trip - there was only "lingering snow" and ice axes likely wouldn't be needed.

Taking the ferry to the Olympic Peninsula.

When we got to the Port Angeles Wilderness Info Center, we checked in with the ranger to get our permit and rent a bear canister. The ranger proceeded to scare us even further with tales of the snow covering the High Divide ridge, and how there were parts of the ridge where, if we took one wrong step, our bodies would be flung across the side of the mountain. I kid you not, those were the ranger's words. We said we'd take our chances, and if the snow seemed bad and we felt uncomfortable, we'd just turn around.

I appreciate and understand why rangers try to talk sense into unsuspecting hikers. There are a lot of unprepared backpackers who don't seem to understand their own mortality and the force of nature. But we aren't exactly careless, and we're not greenhorns either. I figured we'd spend at least one night at lower elevation, and then on the second day, if it seemed too insurmountable, we would truly just turn around.

The "before" shot - excited to hit the trail!

But the snow turned out to be more of an afterthought. We hardly encountered any on the 20 mile loop. Starting about mid-day on Saturday, after negotiating the 3.5 hour drive from Seattle to the Olympic Peninsula, we finally made it to the trailhead. The parking lot was jammed full with day hikers walking to the Sol Duc waterfalls, which is .8 miles from the trailhead. We finally scored a parking spot, ate lunch, and then headed out.

What's cool about the Sol Duc waterfalls are the moss-covered stones and branches surrounding the falls. The Olympic Peninsula is home to a temperate rainforest; in other words, moss and ferns and a thick verdant undergrowth are out of control in these forests. It's kinda like Jumanji out there! We trudged past the falls and headed for Deer Lake, where are first camping spot lay. We still ran into many day hikers and took our time gaining elevation on the wet, rocky trail. By the time we reached Deer Lake, many of the day hikers had left and several overnighters had already set up camp.

We set up our tent, then walked around the quaint little lake. It was quiet and placid there, with really only the sound of a stream running into the lake. The lake was like a glass plate lying in a bowl of evergreens. There were lots of wildflowers blooming. After dinner, we noticed a doe with two fawns nibbling just a few yards away from us. They weren't afraid of us at all. In the morning, we saw another doe with a juvenile, scrounging around a nearby campsite.

Deer Lake.

Deer Lake with fog descending in the evening.

We saw deer at Deer Lake!

And we saw lots of wildflowers.

On day 2, we gained about 1800 feet of elevation in the morning, mostly on switchbacks leading up over a saddle to the High Divide. The switchbacks, the saddle, and the ridge were all absolutely gorgeous. It's breathtaking with the ridge replete with a palate of wildflowers, the peaks snow-capped, frogs and butterflies around every bend.

The steep hillside along the High Divide trail.

Looking into the Seven Lake Basin.

We saw mountain goats!

Mt Olympus made a showing through the clouds.

Standing above Heart Lake - can you see how the lake is actually heart shaped?

We did not go into the basin itself, but stopped for lunch near Bogachiel Peak and enjoyed the view of the basin and its many lakes (there are more than seven!). Then we carried on down to Heart Lake, which really looks like a heart. We saw two packs of mountain goats, one with two kid goats. The scenery around Bogachiel Peak (the highest point on the trail) and the swooping valley down to Heart Lake are stunning.

We hiked down into Sol Duk Park and camped there for the second night. The area was busy with lots of other campers and we were right next to a small waterfall, so it was pretty loud. Something I fail to understand is how other hikers can haul large backpacks several miles over rocky terrain, and then spend the rest of the evening at their campsite blasting trance music and talking loudly about who knows what. How do they even have the energy for that? Just setting up camp, making dinner, cleaning the plates, re-filling and sanitizing water bottles, getting ready for bed, and all that is enough for me!

Never. Going. Outside. Again!

The final morning, we hiked 8 miles through the Sol Duc river valley and back to the trailhead. The trail along here was fairly uneventful. There were some magical parts were the old growth forests loomed in all directions, like cathedral spires. But for the most part it was hard to compete with the scenery from the day before, and we were tired, so we booked it out of there. From the trailhead, we loaded the car and headed straight for the Sol Duc Hot Springs resort for a nice relaxing soak. If you can ignore the smell of sulfur, it is a treat, especially for sore muscles! Last but not least, we had a great dinner in Port Angeles at Kokopelli Grill - they have great drinks and burgers!